Is it really a 383 stroker?

nuttbar51

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I was having difficulties figuring out what this guy did to this truck engine as the guy said he lost all of the numbers/specs when he moved. I thought I would start out on if it is actually a 350 block and what year as a lot of the parts are mish mashed. :evil:

The two codes I have on the block are: 791104865 and T0827HM.
I know the 08 27 is the date is was manufactured but not the year and where.
Any help would be awesome! :D

Thank You!
 

Unsure

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From what I gather the T0827HM translates as follows
Tonawanda plant, august 27, and the hm suffix code was used for 65 327 corvette, 68 327 impala, or a 69 350 impala. I wish I could help on the other numbers. Where did you find them?
 

hurst01

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nuttbar51,

Where did you get the number 791104865? Too many numbers for a block casting number. Another thing, the casting number doesn't tell you anything about whether it is a 383 stroker or not. A 383 stroker starts out with a 327 or 350 block, bored .030 over and a 3.75" stroke crank installed.
If you have the oil pan off you can see where the block is clearanced for the longer 3.75" stroke crank. It will have some obvious ground-out places in the block. If it does not have the ground out places, it isn't a stroker. If someone tells you it is a 383 stroker, you are basically going to have to take their word unless you pull the pan. It can also be a 377 stroker by installing the 3.75" stroke crank and leaving the block a stock 4.000" bore.
 

nuttbar51

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I know that number is long. That its the number stamped on the passenger front area, just behind the alternator. I'm going to try and see what it says by the bell housing on the block.

I figured i would have to rip apart the engine to see the truth. As i have to replace the I oil pan gasket anyways, I'll be doing some measuring then.
Was going to see if it was at least originally a 350 block.

Thanks.
 

nuttbar51

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Unsure said:
From what I gather the T0827HM translates as follows
Tonawanda plant, august 27, and the hm suffix code was used for 65 327 corvette, 68 327 impala, or a 69 350 impala. I wish I could help on the other numbers. Where did you find them?
I've also seen the code HM for "full size". I was assuming it was referring to a truck?

If only i had time to rip it apart to get the casting code by the bell housing!
 

hurst01

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Why would you need to rip it apart? If nothing else, you should be able to see it with a mirror and a flashlight.
 

nuttbar51

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I was going to rip it apart to replace the leaking oil pan gasket, and etc. Thought I'd accomplish it all at one.

I did find the number by the bell housing: 8982388
 

nuttbar51

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Oops. Used chalk and the number is actually 3939388!

So It's a 4bolt 350 for a 68-79 car and truck.
 

nuttbar51

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It also has 388 stamped behind the power steering on the block.
 

nuttbar51

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Okay, now that I at least know it is a 350. -Thank you everyone for your help- on to the other issues.

I am having a timing issue. The guy I bought the truck off of said it is a 383 stroker so, I checked out the firing order of the distributor of a V8 350 with HEI.

I checked TDC in the 1st cylinder and found the timing was off by 180 degrees and adjusted. The truck will still not fire up and when turning over the truck, it blows/backfires out the carb throught the Edelbroch Preformance intake. Any suggestions? I can't get it started and can't check timing, and even adjusting the distributor 45 degrees either way haven't yielded anything but a dead battery! :cry:
 

hurst01

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Sounds like you put the timing 180 degrees out. It would not have been running if it was initially 180 out. I can give you some information on how to reset it if you want but it is going to require a bit on your part. The firing order is 18436572. Cylinders 1,3,5 and 7 are on the drivers side of the engine from front to back. The passenger side is 2, 4, 6, and 8 from front to back. The best way to do this is to remove the valve cover from the drivers side. It is best to use a 5/8 socket and large ratchet, put it on the bolt in the center of the harmonic balancer on the lower pulley and turn the engine clockwise as you are looking at it from the front. The intake valve for the #1 cylinder is the second one from the front on the drivers side of the engine.
While watching the intake valve on #1 cylinder, turn the engine clockwise and watch for the intake valve rocker arm to go down and begin to start back up. as it nears the top, watch for the timing marks on the balancer to come into view. Once you see them coming around, quit turning the engine when the timing marks align at TDC and with the distributor cap off, look for the distributor rotor to be pointing somewhere close to the #1 wire on the distributor cap. The #1 position on the cap should be somewhere to the front of the engine just slightly to the passenger side, usually pointing toward the front corner of the passenger side valve cover, or thereabouts. If it is pointing to the rear of the engine, it is probably 180 degrees out of time. After turning the engine clock-wise and aligning the marks you can re-install the drivers side valve cover.
The way I prefer to do it myself, is to stop turning the engine at about 12-14 degrees before top dead center on the timing marks. With the distributor pointing toward where the #1 should be and the distributor cap ON, install a spark plug in the wire of the number one spark plug wire, lay it on the engine (grounded) where you can see it and with the distributor very loose, and turned toward the far passenger side of the engine and the ignition ON, rotate the distributor COUNTER-CLOCKWISE while watching for the spark plug to fire, and the instant it fires stop and lock the distributor down, or snug it up. You may have to turn it COUNTER-CLOCK-WISE fairly fast to begin with, possibly several times while taking note about where it fires the spark plug. If it fires, do it a bit slower each time until you are able to stop it just as the plug fires.
Once the plug fires, lock the distributor down, re-install the wire on the #1 cylinder and the engine is ready to start. Keep in mind that when running, the distributor rotor is turning clockwise. I have done it this way for so many years that once it is done, I never have to recheck the timing after it starts because I know it is going to be right. This requires a certain "feel" and with enough practice it becomes second nature.
If the engine was running, what ever made you think it was 180 degrees out? If it was 180 out there is no way it could do anything but pop and blow fire out the carburetor. Now, a good word: Depending on who installed the distributor and wires, they could have made the number 1 position anywhere. On the old point-style distributor, the #1 position on the cap was pointing toward the drivers front corner of the valve cover. With the HEI, it was changed and the rotor pointed toward the front corner of the passenger side valve cover. Now, pay attention: Regardless to where the distributor is pointing when the timing marks are aligned to fire the #1 cylinder, wherever the distributor is pointing at that time can be made to fire the number one cylinder by changing the spark plug wires. This is not the correct way to do this. With the marks aligned, the rotor should be pointing somewhere toward the front passenger side valve cover, or thereabouts.
I hope I haven't confused you because I have almost confused myself (LOL). This all comes with experience.
 

nuttbar51

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hurst01 said:
Sounds like you put the timing 180 degrees out. It would not have been running if it was initially 180 out. I can give you some information on how to reset it if you want but it is going to require a bit on your part. The firing order is 18436572. Cylinders 1,3,5 and 7 are on the drivers side of the engine from front to back. The passenger side is 2, 4, 6, and 8 from front to back. The best way to do this is to remove the valve cover from the drivers side. It is best to use a 5/8 socket and large ratchet, put it on the bolt in the center of the harmonic balancer on the lower pulley and turn the engine clockwise as you are looking at it from the front. The intake valve for the #1 cylinder is the second one from the front on the drivers side of the engine.
While watching the intake valve on #1 cylinder, turn the engine clockwise and watch for the intake valve rocker arm to go down and begin to start back up. as it nears the top, watch for the timing marks on the balancer to come into view. Once you see them coming around, quit turning the engine when the timing marks align at TDC and with the distributor cap off, look for the distributor rotor to be pointing somewhere close to the #1 wire on the distributor cap. The #1 position on the cap should be somewhere to the front of the engine just slightly to the passenger side, usually pointing toward the front corner of the passenger side valve cover, or thereabouts. If it is pointing to the rear of the engine, it is probably 180 degrees out of time. After turning the engine clock-wise and aligning the marks you can re-install the drivers side valve cover.
The way I prefer to do it myself, is to stop turning the engine at about 12-14 degrees before top dead center on the timing marks. With the distributor pointing toward where the #1 should be and the distributor cap ON, install a spark plug in the wire of the number one spark plug wire, lay it on the engine (grounded) where you can see it and with the distributor very loose, and turned toward the far passenger side of the engine and the ignition ON, rotate the distributor COUNTER-CLOCKWISE while watching for the spark plug to fire, and the instant it fires stop and lock the distributor down, or snug it up. You may have to turn it COUNTER-CLOCK-WISE fairly fast to begin with, possibly several times while taking note about where it fires the spark plug. If it fires, do it a bit slower each time until you are able to stop it just as the plug fires.
Once the plug fires, lock the distributor down, re-install the wire on the #1 cylinder and the engine is ready to start. Keep in mind that when running, the distributor rotor is turning clockwise. I have done it this way for so many years that once it is done, I never have to recheck the timing after it starts because I know it is going to be right. This requires a certain "feel" and with enough practice it becomes second nature.
If the engine was running, what ever made you think it was 180 degrees out? If it was 180 out there is no way it could do anything but pop and blow fire out the carburetor. Now, a good word: Depending on who installed the distributor and wires, they could have made the number 1 position anywhere. On the old point-style distributor, the #1 position on the cap was pointing toward the drivers front corner of the valve cover. With the HEI, it was changed and the rotor pointed toward the front corner of the passenger side valve cover. Now, pay attention: Regardless to where the distributor is pointing when the timing marks are aligned to fire the #1 cylinder, wherever the distributor is pointing at that time can be made to fire the number one cylinder by changing the spark plug wires. This is not the correct way to do this. With the marks aligned, the rotor should be pointing somewhere toward the front passenger side valve cover, or thereabouts.
I hope I haven't confused you because I have almost confused myself (LOL). This all comes with experience.
The truck wasn't running before I started to fiddle with the timing. I assessed the distributor when the first cylinder was at TDC it was pointing at the driver's side towards the firewall.

Thank you for your advice, I'll try that once the snow melts!
 

nuttbar51

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Okay so your advice kind of worked. I was not completely at TDC so the distributor was off by a few teeth. I was able to turn the truck over and kind of get it to run for a second. I killed the battery again so...I will continue on and see if all of the wires are getting a good spark. It's like it wants to start but, something is just off. :( I will have to tinker with it on my next day off!
Thanks for the info hurst01!!! :)
 

nuttbar51

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So I don't have a bolt in the end of the crank. I was able to remove the balancer with the remover and now there is oil smelling of gas pouring out. lol Looks like I have a bit of work to do!!!
 

nuttbar51

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I was working on the truck and had to take off the harmonic balancer, there was no center bolt! Is this right or is all of the threads just covered in grease and etc? I couldn't even tell with a mirror to look.
Thanks
 

hurst01

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Just a good word on getting the timing back to where it should be. Pull the valve cover on the drivers side, rotate the engine clockwise (as you are facing the engine from the front) until you see the intake valve open and close. When you see it close watch for the timing marks to come up. Look to see where you have the number 1 spark plug wire located in the distributor cap and put a point of reference somewhere on the manifold that you will know where to point the rotor button once the distributor is dropped in.
Personally, I like to stop turning the engine at about 10-12 degrees before TDC and drop the distributor in place. Next, I will turn the distributor clockwise toward the firewall. Take the #1 spark plug wire and place a spark plug in it and lay it close to where I can get to the distributor and turn it slowly COUNTER-CLOCKWISE with the ignition ON and watch the plug to see when it fires. The instant the plug fires, stop turning the distributor and lock it down. You may have to do this several times turning the distributor at different speeds to see where it fires, turning it slower each time. It all comes with experience... most of the time I will never have to move the distributor again to time the ignition.
Since you have the balancer off, one thing to keep in mind. With the timing marks aligned as per the manual it is not timed to fire #1 cylinder. It is timed to fire #6, so don't be fooled thinking it is ready to fire #1.
 

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